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Post by phaeton on Apr 13, 2018 13:14:54 GMT
When we first got the Rav 3.5 years ago, on a long run it would return 55mpg according the the onboard computer, this has slowly reduced & the last long run to Cornwall (300 miles) it claimed 44mpg (although not reset before journey) when I was down there I switched to Shell/BP & since getting back I'm using Costco. This has seen the mpg come up to 46, but still low from the orignal, I was wondering if it's worth seeing if the EGR is clogged?
Is there a Howto I know there is one for the earlier engine
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Post by anchorman on Apr 13, 2018 15:51:39 GMT
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Post by three5 on Apr 13, 2018 19:08:16 GMT
I think that it's worth reminding anyone undertaking this job that the valve itself ( the unit you remove from the engine to clean the port described in the TOC article ) also needs cleaning to ensure that it shuts fully. When I do mine I ( VERY CAREFULLY! ) remove the aluminium core plug from the valve body so that I can fully dismantle and clean the valve. Also it allows you to look through the valve in the closed position and check that it is closing perfectly - a bit like we used to do when setting up twin SU carbs! I'm intending to do mine again when it gets serviced next month so I'll take some pictures of the valve dismantling. On reassembly of the core plug I use the faintest smear of gasket sealant to avoid any leaks. |
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Post by bigkev on Apr 13, 2018 20:18:46 GMT
.......and unlike me, try and remember to replace the (totally reusable) stainless steel gasket that seals said valve tube to cylinder head, or limp mode ensues.
Then try to remember to reconnect the lekky multi plug on the end, or a fault code ensues for that too. Urrawise........sabliddy dawdle.......
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Post by jasehutch on Apr 13, 2018 21:42:08 GMT
The tutor made an error....  |
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Post by phaeton on Apr 16, 2018 11:12:25 GMT
Thanks guys found a couple of Utubes after posting, I'll give that a go in the near future, not sure if that is the issue, but it appears so easy it's not worth not doing it. I was expecting it hidden down the back of the engine somewhere & having to take off the manifold to get to it.
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Post by three5 on Apr 16, 2018 11:35:31 GMT
Thanks guys found a couple of Utubes after posting, I'll give that a go in the near future, not sure if that is the issue, but it appears so easy it's not worth not doing it. I was expecting it hidden down the back of the engine somewhere & having to take off the manifold to get to it.
Easier than changing the fuel filter. About 45 minutes on a good day. Get an aerosol of Carb Cleaner ( - and wear some rubber gloves ) to get the valve itself really shiney. Oh - and watch the bonnet catch on the back of your head. Good luck :TU: |
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Post by three5 on Apr 16, 2018 15:18:37 GMT
Hi Anchorman - I've just found a copy of the very detailed "How To" that you did on this subject when you had a 4.3 ( and short trousers  ). Should I post it on here? |
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Post by anchorman on Apr 16, 2018 20:40:56 GMT
.......and unlike me, try and remember to replace the (totally reusable) stainless steel gasket that seals said valve tube to cylinder head, or limp mode ensues. Then try to remember to reconnect the lekky multi plug on the end, or a fault code ensues for that too. Urrawise........sabliddy dawdle....... Err, I think I did that on your SR. You put me off. |
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Post by anchorman on Apr 16, 2018 20:46:33 GMT
I think that it's worth reminding anyone undertaking this job that the valve itself ( the unit you remove from the engine to clean the port described in the TOC article ) also needs cleaning to ensure that it shuts fully. When I do mine I ( VERY CAREFULLY! ) remove the aluminium core plug from the valve body so that I can fully dismantle and clean the valve. Also it allows you to look through the valve in the closed position and check that it is closing perfectly - a bit like we used to do when setting up twin SU carbs! I'm intending to do mine again when it gets serviced next month so I'll take some pictures of the valve dismantling. On reassembly of the core plug I use the faintest smear of gasket sealant to avoid any leaks. Blimey Chris, some spooky stuff here. I also knock that plug out if the carbon is really bad and after a bit of sealant I pop the body in three places to hold it in. Also set up many SU carbs in my time. I was a bit of a wiz and could do them in my sleep. Brake fluid cleans the piston and barrel like new. Did you know that SU stands for Skinners Union?!! |
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Post by anchorman on Apr 16, 2018 20:48:13 GMT
Hi Anchorman - I've just found a copy of the very detailed "How To" that you did on this subject when you had a 4.3 ( and short trousers ). Should I post it on here? Oh yes, I’d forgotten I’d done one! Cheers Chris. |
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Post by three5 on Apr 17, 2018 9:00:11 GMT
I think that it's worth reminding anyone undertaking this job that the valve itself ( the unit you remove from the engine to clean the port described in the TOC article ) also needs cleaning to ensure that it shuts fully. When I do mine I ( VERY CAREFULLY! ) remove the aluminium core plug from the valve body so that I can fully dismantle and clean the valve. Also it allows you to look through the valve in the closed position and check that it is closing perfectly - a bit like we used to do when setting up twin SU carbs! I'm intending to do mine again when it gets serviced next month so I'll take some pictures of the valve dismantling. On reassembly of the core plug I use the faintest smear of gasket sealant to avoid any leaks. Blimey Chris, some spooky stuff here. I also knock that plug out if the carbon is really bad and after a bit of sealant I pop the body in three places to hold it in. Also set up many SU carbs in my time. I was a bit of a wiz and could do them in my sleep. Brake fluid cleans the piston and barrel like new. Did you know that SU stands for Skinners Union?!! Hi Don - thanks for the brake fluid advice, it sounds a lot less brutal than the carb cleaner and it won't damage any seals. A couple of things about SU's: they were based in Birmingham just around the corner from Dunlop's and had a Customer Service department where they would give advice and help to those with problems as well as servicing and setting up carburettors. I took my 2000cc Ambassador there as it had twin SU's with automatic chokes which were appallingly unreliable. The guy allotted to me said they hadn't found a way of making them reliable and was anxious that I didn't persue the matter. Eventually, he looked around the workshop to make sure he wasn't being watched and said "There is a way, but officially I can't do it". A couple of knowing looks were exchanged then he removed the carbs completely and took them into machine shop where he converted them to manual chokes. It changed the car completely and it was as much of a joy to drive afterwards as you could expect from an Ambassador. When we were first married I had a 1275cc MG Midget with twin SU's. A valve burnt out and there was a flashback through the carburettors just after I'd set off to work one morning. My wife rescued me and I took her Imp to work while she walked home. We towed it home that evening and parked it in the street outside our little house in Keighley. She asked what I was going to do with it and I said "take the head off on Saturday". I came home the following day and found a rather greasey wife and her equally greasey sister with the head on newspaper on the kitchen table! It was only when I came to reassemble it that I found that any nuts or bolts that they had dropped they had left under the car. The carbs needed a full overhaul after the flash back and she became an expert on the different jet/spring combinations that would make it run better. The guys in the local BL dealership knew me as "her" husband which she found very amusing. I'll tidy up my copy of the EGR How To and post it in the correct section. |
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Post by anchorman on Apr 20, 2018 1:28:17 GMT
I did one of my projects for my HNC on a Maestro auto choke. The stepper motors were dreadful things but then so were Ford VV carbs on CVH engined Escort MkIIIs. I suppose it was all part of the evolution of fuel injection which at that time was only for posh cars.
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Post by shcm on Apr 20, 2018 6:22:25 GMT
I did one of my projects for my HNC on a Maestro auto choke. Lucas 4CM controller? |
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Post by anchorman on Apr 20, 2018 16:40:33 GMT
I did one of my projects for my HNC on a Maestro auto choke. Lucas 4CM controller? Maybe. It was 1978 I think!!! |
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). Should I post it on here?
