taffnp4
Club Member
Posts: 11
Primary Vehicle: rav4 xt3 d4d
Year: 2006
Model Spec/Trim: xt3
Engine Capacity: 2.2
Fuel Type: Diesel
Transmission: Manual
Drive Type: 4WD/AWD
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Post by taffnp4 on Jan 21, 2019 16:52:12 GMT
hi all,i have a 2006 rav 2.2 d4d, that takes about 20 to 25 seconds of continuous cranking to start in the mornings. it does try to fire up on first turn but does not run..just keep cranking till it does.when started it runs fine with no excessive smoke on start up,it will then start first turn of the key all day every day until the next day when its back to square one,i have had fuel filter changed and egr cleaned out but this did'nt make any difference,showing no faults on test it drives really well and pulls like a train but the starting issues is killing me any ideas guys hope i have made sense thanks
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Post by three5 on Jan 21, 2019 17:12:46 GMT
hi all,i have a 2006 rav 2.2 d4d, that takes about 20 to 25 seconds of continuous cranking to start in the mornings. it does try to fire up on first turn but does not run..just keep cranking till it does.when started it runs fine with no excessive smoke on start up,it will then start first turn of the key all day every day until the next day when its back to square one,i have had fuel filter changed and egr cleaned out but this did'nt make any difference,showing no faults on test it drives really well and pulls like a train but the starting issues is killing me any ideas guys hope i have made sense thanks It sounds like an engine heater plug problem to me. There is a procedure for checking them with a multimeter(?) from memory. I'm guessing that one of our moderators will have it to hand.
And welcome to the forum!
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taffnp4
Club Member
Posts: 11
Primary Vehicle: rav4 xt3 d4d
Year: 2006
Model Spec/Trim: xt3
Engine Capacity: 2.2
Fuel Type: Diesel
Transmission: Manual
Drive Type: 4WD/AWD
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Post by taffnp4 on Jan 21, 2019 17:30:31 GMT
thanks for the welcome,i will add that the garage that done the filter change and egr clean for me did not think it was plugs as there was no smoke when it did start,
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Post by three5 on Jan 21, 2019 17:47:58 GMT
thanks for the welcome,i will add that the garage that done the filter change and egr clean for me did not think it was plugs as there was no smoke when it did start, I'm not convinced that the lack of smoke is any indication that "it's not the plugs". Did they do the test on the plugs to ensure that they were within specification? Many garages don't like changing them as they can be siezed in place and take a bit of shifting.
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taffnp4
Club Member
Posts: 11
Primary Vehicle: rav4 xt3 d4d
Year: 2006
Model Spec/Trim: xt3
Engine Capacity: 2.2
Fuel Type: Diesel
Transmission: Manual
Drive Type: 4WD/AWD
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Post by taffnp4 on Jan 21, 2019 17:58:17 GMT
he said he plugged it in and they were no faults shown,i can double check tomorrow as to what test he did,thanks
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Post by jasehutch on Jan 21, 2019 19:51:36 GMT
Hi taffnp4 and welcome to the club.. :TU: I would try, before trying to attempt starting first thing in the morning , lifting the bonnet and pumping the primer on the fuel filter head until it goes firm and then try starting to see if the fuel is dropping back to the tank ? To check the heater plugs is easy with a multi meter. Firstly remove the power cable to the plugs and connect the meter between the cable and earth being carefully to ensure the cable can't short to earth. Turn on the ignition and you should see 12 volts for the pre heat duration. The heater plugs themselves can be roughly tested in situ by removing the buzz bar which connects the individual plugs together and then checking for continuity from the thread on the top of the heater plug to earth using the multi meter. There should be continuity..
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Post by bigkev on Jan 21, 2019 19:54:42 GMT
Tomorrow Taff......switch on ignition and wait 10-15 seconds before cranking to allow glowies to preheat a wee bit.....report back.,welcome to this nub of clutters.....
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Post by three5 on Jan 21, 2019 20:08:01 GMT
Hi taffnp4 and welcome to the club.. I would try, before trying to attempt starting first thing in the morning , lifting the bonnet and pumping the primer on the fuel filter head until it goes firm and then try starting to see if the fuel is dropping back to the tank ? To check the heater plugs is easy with a multi meter. Firstly remove the power cable to the plugs and connect the meter between the cable and earth being carefully to ensure the cable can't short to earth. Turn on the ignition and you should see 12 volts for the pre heat duration. The heater plugs themselves can be roughly tested in situ by removing the buzz bar which connects the individual plugs together and then checking for continuity from the thread on the top of the heater plug to earth using the multi meter. There should be continuity.. Good point Jase - it could be either air in the system or a lift pump problem. Either way checking the priming ( maybe cracK a hose connection to let air out? ) should eliminate one problem with any luck. I've just looked for Anchormans "How to change the 4.3 fuel filter" but I can't find it. Is it just on YouTube, and if so could we have a link to it somewhere? Come to think of it, would a list of YouTube links be a usefull thread in it's own right?
( Edit: Taffs motor is a 4.2 and there is a "how to" for that model in the Technical section )
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taffnp4
Club Member
Posts: 11
Primary Vehicle: rav4 xt3 d4d
Year: 2006
Model Spec/Trim: xt3
Engine Capacity: 2.2
Fuel Type: Diesel
Transmission: Manual
Drive Type: 4WD/AWD
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Post by taffnp4 on Jan 21, 2019 20:16:26 GMT
hi,i have tried waiting before start up to allow for glow plugs still no go ,and the primer pump head is always solid,just a recap it does fire slightly on first turn of key like for a second,i have'nt got a multi meter but ill go to garage tomorrow and ask them to do your test,thanks for feedback peeps its much appreciated
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Post by widge on Jan 21, 2019 23:02:34 GMT
Hi, I had a similar problem with my landrover, it was ok during the summer, but in the winter it would crank and crank before it would start, once you started it it was ok for the rest of the day, It took me a year before somebody tracked it down, but only after I had changed the battery, glow plugs lift pump and the module in the fuel tank where the fuel lines go it. It turned out to be a faulty starter, it would crank it over, but just not quite fast enough to start properly, I was dubious when the mechanic told me what he decided it was, but after changing the starter it was fine afterwards.
Probably not the same as your problem, but I wouldn't discount anything.
Dave
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taffnp4
Club Member
Posts: 11
Primary Vehicle: rav4 xt3 d4d
Year: 2006
Model Spec/Trim: xt3
Engine Capacity: 2.2
Fuel Type: Diesel
Transmission: Manual
Drive Type: 4WD/AWD
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Post by taffnp4 on Jan 22, 2019 7:41:01 GMT
Hi, I had a similar problem with my landrover, it was ok during the summer, but in the winter it would crank and crank before it would start, once you started it it was ok for the rest of the day, It took me a year before somebody tracked it down, but only after I had changed the battery, glow plugs lift pump and the module in the fuel tank where the fuel lines go it. It turned out to be a faulty starter, it would crank it over, but just not quite fast enough to start properly, I was dubious when the mechanic told me what he decided it was, but after changing the starter it was fine afterwards. Probably not the same as your problem, but I wouldn't discount anything. Dave
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taffnp4
Club Member
Posts: 11
Primary Vehicle: rav4 xt3 d4d
Year: 2006
Model Spec/Trim: xt3
Engine Capacity: 2.2
Fuel Type: Diesel
Transmission: Manual
Drive Type: 4WD/AWD
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Post by taffnp4 on Jan 22, 2019 7:41:50 GMT
thanks for that dave but im going to have to rule out starter motor for now as she does turn over very fast also got a new battery fitted as she does take some cranking to get started,but for good measure im going to try to get battery and and alternator load tested today along with heater plugs tested
thanks
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Post by Paulus17 on Jan 22, 2019 13:20:42 GMT
Could it be the engine oil been too thick making it turn over slower in this colder weather??
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taffnp4
Club Member
Posts: 11
Primary Vehicle: rav4 xt3 d4d
Year: 2006
Model Spec/Trim: xt3
Engine Capacity: 2.2
Fuel Type: Diesel
Transmission: Manual
Drive Type: 4WD/AWD
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Post by taffnp4 on Jan 22, 2019 21:21:11 GMT
had test done today battery and alternator all good heater plugs all good the headache continues... oil changed 2 months ago
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simon
Junior Member
Posts: 4
Primary Vehicle: Toyota Rav4
Year: 2006
Model Spec/Trim: D4D XT4
Engine Capacity: 2.2
Fuel Type: Diesel
Transmission: Manual
Drive Type: 4WD/AWD
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Post by simon on Jan 24, 2019 12:17:42 GMT
Hi taffnp4, I have exactly the same problem and ruled out all the normal suspects. On further researching threads on various forums, it seems the 2AD-FTV engine has a known cold starting problem. The suggested "fix" is to change the SCV (Suction Control valve) for a modified version made available some time ago, which is less prone to the valve sticking in very cold weather and to have the CPU software updated to the latest version (302v0000), which increases the cold start fuel pressure from 50 bar to 100 bar. Unfortunately this needs to be done by a dealer I understand. It is suggested that this "fix" does not completely fix the problem (which seems to be unknown), but does help mask it and improves starting. The dealer cost to supply, fit and update the software seems to be between £300 and £500 though! (Valve change takes 5 mins, just 2 bolts) Since I don't have that money spare at present, I have ordered a new SCV from P.F Jones at £65+VAT (I just quoted my diesel pump number) and will be fitting it tomorrow to see if this helps anyway. A temporary fix/check, is to pour a kettle of hot water slowly over the SCV to warm it up and then try starting with clutch down and throttle to the floor... The SCV is visible on the end of the Diesel pump, to the right of the engine cover, at the rear and to the left of the air filter housing. There is a Toyota Technical Service bulletin on the problem EG-0132T-1110-EN
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