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Post by flyboyprowler on Jan 10, 2019 18:05:31 GMT
An old chestnut I know, but is there a direct replacement for the standard sat nav in a 4.3. I am fed up with not having full postcode recognition, and it didn't even know Guildford hospital this week!!  |
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Post by unclebob on Jan 10, 2019 20:14:46 GMT
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Post by three5 on Jan 10, 2019 21:32:35 GMT
An old chestnut I know, but is there a direct replacement for the standard sat nav in a 4.3. I am fed up with not having full postcode recognition, and it didn't even know Guildford hospital this week!!  You can fit a whole range of headunits with very little effort in the 4.3. I have a Kenwood DNX8160DBS which I fitted for exactly the reason you say - proper postcode addressing! It has a 7" touchscreen, and has either bluetooth or cable connected iPhone/Android Phone, Gamin maps which are updateable via a SD card ( as is the software ). There are also connections for USB thumb drives ( for music etc )
I also fitted a new surround for the unit which is a direct replacement for the one Toyota fit arround the original headunit. A couple of short conversion cables are required to connect the unit to the existing wiring without modifying it. All these "adapter" bits cost less than £30 and it means that I can refit the Toyota unit if I sell the car. I've had it installed for about 2 years. CarAudioCentre ahve them for sale: www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-kenwood-dnx8170dabs_p-40219.htm |
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Post by flyboyprowler on Jan 10, 2019 23:03:06 GMT
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Post by 152bobby on Jan 11, 2019 9:56:19 GMT
That unit looks excellent.
Did you still have all the existing functions in your car after you installed it ?
My 4.3 has the HDD system, which according to my research is about the only function I would not have, I don't really use it anyway.
I also have a huge data package on my phone , I would look for a head unit that does not have sat Nav built in, as long as it has Android Auto, I can use Google Maps, so this, I assume would save some money.
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Post by phaeton on Jan 11, 2019 10:03:48 GMT
PM me your address, I'll send you a couple of DVD's that probably came from Fleecebay guy, they won't work in my unit, but he claims there's nothing wrong with them.
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Post by three5 on Jan 11, 2019 11:24:36 GMT
Ainsley, the one you link to looks like the latest version of the one that I have. If you buy it, make sure that you get the GPS receiver as well as the headunit ( people often forget to remove these! ). Fitting is dead easy as you just take the old unit out using a 10mm socket with a bit of bluetack or plastacine in the bottom of it to prevent the setscrews ending up in the bottom of the central console. The brackets on the sides of the Toyota unit just screw into place on the sides of the Kenwood once you remove the metal sleeve shown in the ebay photos. You will need an adaptor lead(s?) from the unit to the Toyota plugs. With the GPS receiver, just stick it to the top of the eye level ventilation duct ( inside the dashboard ) just above the radio. Pity I live so far away!!!!
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Post by three5 on Jan 11, 2019 11:33:58 GMT
That unit looks excellent. Did you still have all the existing functions in your car after you installed it ? My 4.3 has the HDD system, which according to my research is about the only function I would not have, I don't really use it anyway. I also have a huge data package on my phone , I would look for a head unit that does not have sat Nav built in, as long as it has Android Auto, I can use Google Maps, so this, I assume would save some money. If you are using your phone for navigation, I would suggest that you could get away with something much less complex in the way of a headunit as the satnav is really it's primary function. The Android Auto function would really only allow you to see some of your apps on the satnav screen. The only function missing after installation is the phone control on the right hand steering wheel buttons ( they appear to be on a propriety bus system - SHCM is the real expert in this area unless Big Kev has failed to train him in this area  ). I was worried about this initially but they all seen to be dealt with by the headunit. |
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Post by unclebob on Jan 11, 2019 18:40:56 GMT
Can’t believe how many YouTube clips are on the subject of upgrading late Rav4 sat/nav/audio 👍🏻👍🏻
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Post by shcm on Jan 12, 2019 9:08:58 GMT
[The only function missing after installation is the phone control on the right hand steering wheel buttons ( they appear to be on a propriety bus system - SHCM is the real expert in this area unless Big Kev has failed to train him in this area Playing the pedantry card, that's not strictly totally correct. For many years Toyota have used a bus system (AVCLAN) to let all their A/V kit communicate between units. e.g. head unit to separate CD player, sat nav to add on DAB module etc. I think I've seen reference to modules on a few Mr. T vehicles that transfer the steering wheel switch states to the bus. However, all the ones I've come across (all European units, RAV, T&G, Touch 2, basic radio/CD) directly connect the switches to the head unit in a much simpler arrangement than a bus. The switches each switch in/out a different values of resistor in a resistor "chain". Effectively they switch resistors in/out in parallel, in the bottom half of a potential divider. The upshot of which is, you get a different voltage "output" from the pot divider, depending on what switches are pressed. i.e. A resistor switch box or a "variable" pot with discrete states, if you like. There are usually three wires (sometimes 4) connected to the head unit (switch ground, and 2 switch voltage outputs - 2 resistor chains (sometimes 3). The "top half" of the pot(s) is in the head unit). They probably then feed that "switch output voltage" to an ADC or a bunch of comparators in the head unit. So, different voltage depending on which switch is pressed. It's an arrangement I'm not that keen on. Probably because other manufacturers have tried this, then run into switch voltage output tolerancing problems in production, which caused odd switch behaviour, as the voltage "acceptance bands" for each switch could sometimes overlap. (Combination of too many switches on the chain & associated lower "noise" headroom due to smaller switch voltage "acceptance band" & basic resistor tolerance). So getting hold of the switch information isn't that tricky. You then have to "translate" it to the alternative head unit, if it supports similar remote functions. If its another voltage input, it may well be a type of voltage conversion job, as the switch voltage levels the new head unit expects may not correspond to Toyota's ones. It can be slightly more complex, where the replacement head unit does expect remote switch info on a bus. Then it's a "voltage to bus" translator. |
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Post by three5 on Jan 12, 2019 9:50:58 GMT
[The only function missing after installation is the phone control on the right hand steering wheel buttons ( they appear to be on a propriety bus system - SHCM is the real expert in this area unless Big Kev has failed to train him in this area Playing the pedantry card, that's not strictly totally correct. For many years Toyota have used a bus system (AVCLAN) to let all their A/V kit communicate between units. e.g. head unit to separate CD player, sat nav to add on DAB module etc. I think I've seen reference to modules on a few Mr. T vehicles that transfer the steering wheel switch states to the bus. However, all the ones I've come across (all European units, RAV, T&G, Touch 2, basic radio/CD) directly connect the switches to the head unit in a much simpler arrangement than a bus. The switches each switch in/out a different values of resistor in a resistor "chain". Effectively they switch resistors in/out in parallel, in the bottom half of a potential divider. The upshot of which is, you get a different voltage "output" from the pot divider, depending on what switches are pressed. i.e. A resistor switch box or a "variable" pot with discrete states, if you like. There are usually three wires (sometimes 4) connected to the head unit (switch ground, and 2 switch voltage outputs - 2 resistor chains (sometimes 3). The "top half" of the pot(s) is in the head unit). They probably then feed that "switch output voltage" to an ADC or a bunch of comparators in the head unit. So, different voltage depending on which switch is pressed. It's an arrangement I'm not that keen on. Probably because other manufacturers have tried this, then run into switch voltage output tolerancing problems in production, which caused odd switch behaviour, as the voltage "acceptance bands" for each switch could sometimes overlap. (Combination of too many switches on the chain & associated lower "noise" headroom due to smaller switch voltage "acceptance band" & basic resistor tolerance). So getting hold of the switch information isn't that tricky. You then have to "translate" it to the alternative head unit, if it supports similar remote functions. If its another voltage input, it may well be a type of voltage conversion job, as the switch voltage levels the new head unit expects may not correspond to Toyota's ones. It can be slightly more complex, where the replacement head unit does expect remote switch info on a bus. Then it's a "voltage to bus" translator. Hmmmmm! I think that I'll leave mine the way it is then  |
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Post by flyboyprowler on Jan 14, 2019 21:05:20 GMT
Ainsley, the one you link to looks like the latest version of the one that I have. If you buy it, make sure that you get the GPS receiver as well as the headunit ( people often forget to remove these! ). Fitting is dead easy as you just take the old unit out using a 10mm socket with a bit of bluetack or plastacine in the bottom of it to prevent the setscrews ending up in the bottom of the central console. The brackets on the sides of the Toyota unit just screw into place on the sides of the Kenwood once you remove the metal sleeve shown in the ebay photos. You will need an adaptor lead(s?) from the unit to the Toyota plugs. With the GPS receiver, just stick it to the top of the eye level ventilation duct ( inside the dashboard ) just above the radio. Pity I live so far away!!!!
Well, I didn't buy the unit i was going to bid for but got a "buy it now" for £25 less than the other one, and it should be on its way from bonny Scotland tomorrow. So reading about all those tricky bits from SCHM it could be a problem to fit. So is my next stop the local Road Radio shop or is there someone better down south here, that may be able to help. Incidentally, which are the extension cables need to fit myself. Also not sure if I will need to get a DAB arial. |
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Post by three5 on Jan 14, 2019 21:52:34 GMT
Ainsley, the one you link to looks like the latest version of the one that I have. If you buy it, make sure that you get the GPS receiver as well as the headunit ( people often forget to remove these! ). Fitting is dead easy as you just take the old unit out using a 10mm socket with a bit of bluetack or plastacine in the bottom of it to prevent the setscrews ending up in the bottom of the central console. The brackets on the sides of the Toyota unit just screw into place on the sides of the Kenwood once you remove the metal sleeve shown in the ebay photos. You will need an adaptor lead(s?) from the unit to the Toyota plugs. With the GPS receiver, just stick it to the top of the eye level ventilation duct ( inside the dashboard ) just above the radio. Pity I live so far away!!!!
Well, I didn't buy the unit i was going to bid for but got a "buy it now" for £25 less than the other one, and it should be on its way from bonny Scotland tomorrow. So reading about all those tricky bits from SCHM it could be a problem to fit. So is my next stop the local Road Radio shop or is there someone better down south here, that may be able to help. Incidentally, which are the extension cables need to fit myself. Also not sure if I will need to get a DAB arial. You'll definitely need a DAB ariel Ainsley. Mine is a stick-on one that fits on the edge of the windscreen and works fine. I couldn't contemplate making the measurements and adjustments that SHCM talked about ( and you don't REALLY need the steering wheel functions with the Kenwood unit ) but the rest of the fitting is fairly straightforward. About an hour to fit it and 3 weeks to get all the settings as you want them  . If you ring the Car Audio Centre in Nottingham they are very knowledgeable and will sort out the cables and the surround moulding for you and put them in the post. I always deal with a guy called Chris ( - 'cause I can remember his name! ) 0115 845 3462. They have shops at Tooting and Ilford as well. Don't know exactly where you are based. |
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Post by shcm on Jan 15, 2019 6:51:41 GMT
So reading about all those tricky bits from SCHM it could be a problem to fit. To reiterate Chris' comments, if you've got all the harness adapter kit with the unit, fitting should be relatively straightforward. You can live without the remote functions related to my "verbage".  |
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Post by bigkev on Jan 16, 2019 8:41:39 GMT
Much as I know a barrow load of Far Call aboot this subject, it pleases me to see names like Kenwood bandied aboot. These Chinese "Starman" units....made up name.......must be avoided at all costs, mins......they are just mince.......!
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). I was worried about this initially but they all seen to be dealt with by the headunit.
