drs22
Junior Member
Posts: 5
Location: Cumbria
Primary Vehicle: RAV4
Year: 2009
Model Spec/Trim: XTR
Engine Capacity: 2L
Fuel Type: Petrol
Transmission: Automatic
Drive Type: 4WD/AWD
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Post by drs22 on May 18, 2023 16:29:33 GMT
Greetings all. Had mine from new and now approaching 110k. Has been entrusted to the main dealer but now I realise that I must provide some tlc. Started lurking a couple of days ago for tips. Visited the local ECP today and have popped on some Denso wipers, the previous Bosch did like to creak across the screen. Will be looking at a bit of mild rust proofing as this was an advisory on the last MOT.
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Post by davrav on May 18, 2023 16:48:10 GMT
:welcome: to the club. We have quite a few oldish members with newish RAVs :yes: My 2008 is currently approaching 147K so you have a way to go  Where on the car did the MOT advise to be rust monitored/treated? |
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Post by jasehutch on May 18, 2023 17:26:45 GMT
Hello and welcome to the club 👍
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Post by bothwellbuyer on May 18, 2023 19:02:39 GMT
Welcome to the club.
The older RAVs usually had rusty fuel filler pipes - a cheap fix as its a quick job and you can buy after market pipes.
Rust - seemed to always be the rear subframe aea and also the sills. I had wheel arch extenders on my 1994 RAVs and they caused rust too. I'm not long after getting a 2006 welded. There are new panels from Poland - or the Toyota ones that are extortionate. Best to have a good look at these areas and treat with a rust killer and then a preventative.
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drs22
Junior Member
Posts: 5
Location: Cumbria
Primary Vehicle: RAV4
Year: 2009
Model Spec/Trim: XTR
Engine Capacity: 2L
Fuel Type: Petrol
Transmission: Automatic
Drive Type: 4WD/AWD
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Post by drs22 on May 18, 2023 19:04:43 GMT
Hello davrav. The wording from the dealer was - "corrosion starting throughout underside, fuel filler pipes corroded". I had it looked at by a local garage whilst they were fixing the bushes (also an MOT item) and they thought it OK. I have some ACF50 so have started working under, sort of a corner at a time. The fuel filler pipe seems to be under a cowl, so not sure what can be seen with it in place.
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Post by davrav on May 18, 2023 19:47:46 GMT
Ref. the fuel filler pipe, it is indeed behind a plastic cowl. Mud collects and stays wet, hence corrosion. The only visible part of the pipe, before removing the cowl, is right at the bottom where it is exposed to splashing and road grit.
Easiest to take the wheel off but can be done without. However, on an ageing RAV I would definitely be inclined to get the wheel off as the nuts that hold the cowl are likely to be rusted onto the threaded studs. Best to give the nuts/threads a good clean and soak in release oil the day before and go easy.
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drs22
Junior Member
Posts: 5
Location: Cumbria
Primary Vehicle: RAV4
Year: 2009
Model Spec/Trim: XTR
Engine Capacity: 2L
Fuel Type: Petrol
Transmission: Automatic
Drive Type: 4WD/AWD
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Post by drs22 on May 19, 2023 10:11:15 GMT
Excellent, thankyou. No problem popping the wheel off so I'll do it that way. It'll have to wait for a bit as we have a couple of long journeys coming up. I'll try to let you know how I get on idc. Ageing?? - never, more like mid life!!
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Post by charliefarlie on May 19, 2023 10:44:45 GMT
Greetings. If your using ACF50 as a rust prevention beware it’s an ultralight oil the same as WD40 so will soon wash off. The trend is to use Lanogaurd which is a heavier oil and Lanolin mix but for me it’s a halfway house between doing a full on job like a complete scrub up then treat with a rust converter not because of rust but because it’s an awesome primer for the top coat. Dinitrol 4941 is a tried and tested favourite on this forum. Yes it’s more work but other than keeping an eye on it you don’t have to re apply every year. Vactan is a good converter as recommended by Bob on here.
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Post by unclebob on May 19, 2023 10:49:00 GMT
Welcome to the club 👍🏻
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Post by bothwellbuyer on May 19, 2023 11:02:54 GMT
Agre with Charlie - Lanoguard is good, easy to apply as you just need to power wash underneath, leave a few days to dry then spray on. However it does need doing every year, so I've read. I have 2 litres of it, bought for my fire engine that got nicked. I got my wee Rav sprayed with Dinitrol - its an import and was in near pristine condition undeneath so I'm wanting it to stay that way.
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drs22
Junior Member
Posts: 5
Location: Cumbria
Primary Vehicle: RAV4
Year: 2009
Model Spec/Trim: XTR
Engine Capacity: 2L
Fuel Type: Petrol
Transmission: Automatic
Drive Type: 4WD/AWD
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Post by drs22 on May 19, 2023 12:50:33 GMT
Many thanks for the advice on rustproofing. I like the look of Lanoguard as it seems easy to apply. But I had some ACF50 so thought I would see how that goes. I also have some waxoil so will use that for soiled areas (after cleaning). I did a quick spray a couple of months back on the easy to reach rear arms, then left it a couple of days to let the ACF50 do its thing. Areas treated are still looking pretty good. The underside is mostly covered in a thin layer of rust so I am just trying to slow things down a bit.
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Post by firemac on May 19, 2023 16:10:17 GMT
Many thanks for the advice on rustproofing. I like the look of Lanoguard as it seems easy to apply. But I had some ACF50 so thought I would see how that goes. I also have some waxoil so will use that for soiled areas (after cleaning). I did a quick spray a couple of months back on the easy to reach rear arms, then left it a couple of days to let the ACF50 do its thing. Areas treated are still looking pretty good. The underside is mostly covered in a thin layer of rust so I am just trying to slow things down a bit. I use ACF50 on areas that don’t get jet washed by road debris and water. It’s great for areas like the fuel filler pipe as it’s hidden behind a plastic shield. |
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Post by charliefarlie on May 19, 2023 17:03:14 GMT
Many thanks for the advice on rustproofing. I like the look of Lanoguard as it seems easy to apply. But I had some ACF50 so thought I would see how that goes. I also have some waxoil so will use that for soiled areas (after cleaning). I did a quick spray a couple of months back on the easy to reach rear arms, then left it a couple of days to let the ACF50 do its thing. Areas treated are still looking pretty good. The underside is mostly covered in a thin layer of rust so I am just trying to slow things down a bit. The ACF50 certainly won’t do any harm oil is oil after all. I won’t take much getting off if you decide on a more permanent fix later either. Lanogaurd on the other hand isn’t I’m told easy to clean off. 👍 |
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