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Post by davrav on Nov 12, 2021 10:43:52 GMT
Some car manufacturers specify a minimum monthly mileage in order to keep batteries charged and in order to fulfil battery warranty requirements.
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Post by widge on Nov 12, 2021 13:33:14 GMT
Yes …..thats the Yuasa I have on mine YBX3031 👍🏻👍🏻 OK cheers Bob :TU: Do the straps need moving or something as Widge suggested? Hi I wasn't talking about the electrical connections, it was just the securing bracket hooks into a different place with the larger battery. |
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Post by Paulus17 on Nov 12, 2021 13:55:58 GMT
OK cheers Bob  Do the straps need moving or something as Widge suggested? Removing straps eliminates sacrificial drain which is something taking a very small amount of power like for instance the alarm…… But this shouldn’t really be a problem if a big battery is fitted. Re you existing battery . If Toyota fitted it and it’s not up to the job tell them. Although your use of the car has changed the battery should still be up to the job….. If you don’t ask you won’t get. Checking the voltage output is easy even for a thickie like me. A simple basic multi meter is all you need. Set it to read the voltage and put the red probe to positive and the black to negative. Your looking for a number well over 13 volts…. If you have that all is well. Though it’s reasonable to assume all is well as it’s change of use that’s affecting the battery. 👍👍 So would a cheap meter do the job as i don't want to spend too much on an item i won't be using very often? |
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Post by Paulus17 on Nov 12, 2021 13:57:58 GMT
OK cheers Bob Do the straps need moving or something as Widge suggested? Hi I wasn't talking about the electrical connections, it was just the securing bracket hooks into a different place with the larger battery. Got ya, yes i think there are a number of holes in the bodywork under the battery compartment for the metal hooks that hold the battery to go through :TU: |
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Post by unclebob on Nov 12, 2021 15:12:53 GMT
Yes …..thats the Yuasa I have on mine YBX3031 👍🏻👍🏻 OK cheers Bob Do the straps need moving or something as Widge suggested? Yes metal brackets needs moving to the next set of bolt holes. The threaded rods that run down to the base need to move to outer holes. have a look while battery is out at the tray 👍🏻 |
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Post by unclebob on Nov 12, 2021 18:18:17 GMT
See position of battery clamp brackets… Old battery…..  With new YUASA battery….  |
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Post by charliefarlie on Nov 12, 2021 18:21:43 GMT
Removing straps eliminates sacrificial drain which is something taking a very small amount of power like for instance the alarm…… But this shouldn’t really be a problem if a big battery is fitted. Re you existing battery . If Toyota fitted it and it’s not up to the job tell them. Although your use of the car has changed the battery should still be up to the job….. If you don’t ask you won’t get. Checking the voltage output is easy even for a thickie like me. A simple basic multi meter is all you need. Set it to read the voltage and put the red probe to positive and the black to negative. Your looking for a number well over 13 volts…. If you have that all is well. Though it’s reasonable to assume all is well as it’s change of use that’s affecting the battery. 👍👍 So would a cheap meter do the job as i don't want to spend too much on an item i won't be using very often? Not sure Paul….. I bought a UnitT one which is far to complicated for me. I would love to be able to understand more of the functions. I do very basic stuff. I would imagine even the basic ones measure voltage…. Can you borrow one ? It’s literally a one minute job to test voltage. One of the more knowledgeable guys can likely advise better than me 👍👍 |
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Post by philip42h on Nov 12, 2021 18:53:36 GMT
So would a cheap meter do the job as i don't want to spend too much on an item i won't be using very often? Not sure Paul….. I bought a UnitT one which is far to complicated for me. I would love to be able to understand more of the functions. I do very basic stuff. I would imagine even the basic ones measure voltage…. Can you borrow one ? It’s literally a one minute job to test voltage. One of the more knowledgeable guys can likely advise better than me 👍👍 I bought my lad an emergency multi-meter last weekend - £8.50 from Halfords - but you can get a perfectly serviceable meter for less! (I needed to physically pick one up on the way over to his - no power at all in the kitchen!) |
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Post by davidwilson on Nov 12, 2021 18:59:18 GMT
I am no expert but I think you need more than a multimeter. Several of us bought a meter off ebay that enables a check on the battery under load. But I would complain to Toyota if that's where you bought the battery, and expect them to check the battery and alternator and voltage regulator for you.
Some years ago I took a battery back to Halfords and they checked the battery and agreed it had prematurely failed and gave me a new one with new warranty.
The AA etc will also be able to check for you.
Maybe Don or Andy can chip in?
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Post by charliefarlie on Nov 12, 2021 19:32:23 GMT
I am no expert but I think you need more than a multimeter. Several of us bought a meter off ebay that enables a check on the battery under load. But I would complain to Toyota if that's where you bought the battery, and expect them to check the battery and alternator and voltage regulator for you. Some years ago I took a battery back to Halfords and they checked the battery and agreed it had prematurely failed and gave me a new one with new warranty. The AA etc will also be able to check for you. Maybe Don or Andy can chip in? David my knowledge isn’t great but I can say that checking if the alternator is working is very easy and can be done with a multimeter….. It must be simple or I couldn’t do it, 👍👍 Checking a battery under load is a different thing. I bought one of those testers you mention and it’s ok but I don’t think it can do a proper load test. Your correct Don or Andy will know the information. 👍👍 |
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Post by Paulus17 on Nov 14, 2021 10:51:52 GMT
I am no expert but I think you need more than a multimeter. Several of us bought a meter off ebay that enables a check on the battery under load. But I would complain to Toyota if that's where you bought the battery, and expect them to check the battery and alternator and voltage regulator for you. Some years ago I took a battery back to Halfords and they checked the battery and agreed it had prematurely failed and gave me a new one with new warranty. The AA etc will also be able to check for you. Maybe Don or Andy can chip in? This is why i don't like messing with anything leccy David unless i am sure i know what i am doing so would rather leave it those who know :TU: Anyhoo we didn't manage to get to Toyota yesterday so i phoned them instead and as the Rav isn't been used much now they said to give the battery a good charge and take it on a good run then if it fails to start then they will book it in. They also asked what our annual mileage is but that was ok of 6-8k a year. So i didn't charge it as it did start ok yesterday but we did go on a trip over to Leicester so that should have put plenty of charge back in it. So was it just the couple of frosty mornings we had the other week that caused the issue as as i say it has been fine since we have had the new battery in even last winter as it was been used daily?? Also will this new E10 petrol be ok in the tank for longer periods now? |
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Post by philip42h on Nov 14, 2021 11:24:15 GMT
A modern smart charger will include all the 12v battery 'test' capability that you need - and will tell you if the battery is too 'duff' to charge properly.
A simple multi-meter would allow you you to check that you are getting better than 12v at rest, and 13-14v from the alternator when the engine is running - which allows for a basic test of the alternator.
E10 will sit happily in the tank for pretty much as long as E5 will - there's far too much E10 FUD about. If you are doing 6-8k miles per year you will be burning off the fuel easily fast enough to have no issues. If you seriously drop your annual mileage but still run the car 'every weekend' you will have little option but to have fuel sitting in the tank for longer. You might then want to consider keeping the tank full rather than running it down excessively - i.e. top-up as soon as you get down to about half full.
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Post by Paulus17 on Nov 14, 2021 11:58:11 GMT
A modern smart charger will include all the 12v battery 'test' capability that you need - and will tell you if the battery is too 'duff' to charge properly. A simple multi-meter would allow you you to check that you are getting better than 12v at rest, and 13-14v from the alternator when the engine is running - which allows for a basic test of the alternator. E10 will sit happily in the tank for pretty much as long as E5 will - there's far too much E10 FUD about. If you are doing 6-8k miles per year you will be burning off the fuel easily fast enough to have no issues. If you seriously drop your annual mileage but still run the car 'every weekend' you will have little option but to have fuel sitting in the tank for longer. You might then want to consider keeping the tank full rather than running it down excessively - i.e. top-up as soon as you get down to about half full. OK thank you Philip i have just ordered THIS meter as i guess it will be useful for other things as well. What would be the benefit of keeping the petrol tank full? Obviously now that 6-8k figure will be a lot less. |
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Post by philip42h on Nov 14, 2021 12:17:15 GMT
A modern smart charger will include all the 12v battery 'test' capability that you need - and will tell you if the battery is too 'duff' to charge properly. A simple multi-meter would allow you you to check that you are getting better than 12v at rest, and 13-14v from the alternator when the engine is running - which allows for a basic test of the alternator. E10 will sit happily in the tank for pretty much as long as E5 will - there's far too much E10 FUD about. If you are doing 6-8k miles per year you will be burning off the fuel easily fast enough to have no issues. If you seriously drop your annual mileage but still run the car 'every weekend' you will have little option but to have fuel sitting in the tank for longer. You might then want to consider keeping the tank full rather than running it down excessively - i.e. top-up as soon as you get down to about half full. OK thank you Philip i have just ordered THIS meter as i guess it will be useful for other things as well. What would be the benefit of keeping the petrol tank full? Obviously now that 6-8k figure will be a lot less. Fuel tends to degrade through exposure to the atmosphere. Keeping the tank 'full' means that there is more fuel and less atmosphere in the tank; leaving the tank with 'half a gallon' at the bottom gives a small amount of fuel plenty of opportunity to 'go bad'. An obvious and arguably 'better' alternative would be to run the tank dry and then add exactly the right amount of fresh fuel that you are going to need for any given journey - but that would be seriously impractical! |
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Post by Paulus17 on Nov 14, 2021 12:37:03 GMT
OK thank you Philip i have just ordered THIS meter as i guess it will be useful for other things as well. What would be the benefit of keeping the petrol tank full? Obviously now that 6-8k figure will be a lot less. Fuel tends to degrade through exposure to the atmosphere. Keeping the tank 'full' means that there is more fuel and less atmosphere in the tank; leaving the tank with 'half a gallon' at the bottom gives a small amount of fuel plenty of opportunity to 'go bad'. An obvious and arguably 'better' alternative would be to run the tank dry and then add exactly the right amount of fresh fuel that you are going to need for any given journey - but that would be seriously impractical! Ah ok i think she needs to fill up anyhow now after our trip out :TU: |
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