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Post by davrav on Jul 29, 2021 19:08:49 GMT
What is Toyota quality coming to?
My 4.3 is only 13 years old and has covered a miniscule 138K miles but the nice MOT person 'advised' that the bottom rubber cover on the nearside front drop link is weeping grease.
New drop links currently in box awaiting fitment but I have no idea what the correct torque should be when tightening the nuts.
Anyone able to advise?
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Post by davrav on Jul 29, 2021 19:26:08 GMT
I think it is 74nm if I am reading this correctly: link2nd opinion appreciated though  |
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Post by unclebob on Jul 29, 2021 19:28:13 GMT
Did start looking on google for an exploded diagram of the front suspension\steering , if from a genuine workshop manual it comes with the torque for each bolt but no luck so far 🙁
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Post by unclebob on Jul 29, 2021 19:29:34 GMT
Agree 74 Nm 👍🏻👍🏻
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Post by davrav on Jul 29, 2021 19:38:43 GMT
Thanks Bob  Just need time to get it jacked up and the wheels off. I hope the nuts are not rusted on........ |
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Post by three5 on Jul 29, 2021 19:51:40 GMT
What is Toyota quality coming to? My 4.3 is only 13 years old and has covered a miniscule 138K miles but the nice MOT person 'advised' that the bottom rubber cover on the nearside front drop link is weeping grease. New drop links currently in box awaiting fitment but I have no idea what the correct torque should be when tightening the nuts. Anyone able to advise? Funnily enough, I did exactly the same job on mine last year David ( as you know, it's just about the same age as yours, but with just over 97k on the clock ). As with the Q links at the rear, the nuts wouldn't come off with just friction holding the "stud" from rotating. Using an angle grinder with a thin cutting disc, I cut through the stud so that it was flush with the end of the nut, then cut through the thickness of the nut to within about 0.5mm of the bar surface. It was then dead easy to split the last little bit of nut with a small cold chisel. Like a lot of these jobs, the first side where I developed the method, took about 45 minutes and the second side 20 minutes! As for torque, I can't get too excited about using a torque wrench to a specified torque figure. I've just checked my Machinery's Handbook and it says the clamping load/ bolt torque relationship is +/_ 25% if you use a torque wrench! I reckon that with your experience you can probably get a better result than that just by feel ( which the same book says is +/_ 35% ). I do use a torque wrench where I have sets of bolts that should have the load distributed evenly between them, but you are talking about single "bolts" here. |
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Post by unclebob on Jul 29, 2021 20:25:57 GMT
What is Toyota quality coming to? My 4.3 is only 13 years old and has covered a miniscule 138K miles but the nice MOT person 'advised' that the bottom rubber cover on the nearside front drop link is weeping grease. New drop links currently in box awaiting fitment but I have no idea what the correct torque should be when tightening the nuts. Anyone able to advise? Funnily enough, I did exactly the same job on mine last year David ( as you know, it's just about the same age as yours, but with just over 97k on the clock ). As with the Q links at the rear, the nuts wouldn't come off with just friction holding the "stud" from rotating. Using an angle grinder with a thin cutting disc, I cut through the stud so that it was flush with the end of the nut, then cut through the thickness of the nut to within about 0.5mm of the bar surface. It was then dead easy to split the last little bit of nut with a small cold chisel. Like a lot of these jobs, the first side where I developed the method, took about 45 minutes and the second side 20 minutes! As for torque, I can't get too excited about using a torque wrench to a specified torque figure. I've just checked my Machinery's Handbook and it says the clamping load/ bolt torque relationship is +/_ 25% if you use a torque wrench! I reckon that with your experience you can probably get a better result than that just by feel ( which the same book says is +/_ 35% ). I do use a torque wrench where I have sets of bolts that should have the load distributed evenly between them, but you are talking about single "bolts" here. I was just thinking a grind will probably be needed 🙁 |
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Post by bigkev on Jul 29, 2021 22:11:23 GMT
Funnily enough, I did exactly the same job on mine last year David ( as you know, it's just about the same age as yours, but with just over 97k on the clock ). As with the Q links at the rear, the nuts wouldn't come off with just friction holding the "stud" from rotating. Using an angle grinder with a thin cutting disc, I cut through the stud so that it was flush with the end of the nut, then cut through the thickness of the nut to within about 0.5mm of the bar surface. It was then dead easy to split the last little bit of nut with a small cold chisel. Like a lot of these jobs, the first side where I developed the method, took about 45 minutes and the second side 20 minutes! As for torque, I can't get too excited about using a torque wrench to a specified torque figure. I've just checked my Machinery's Handbook and it says the clamping load/ bolt torque relationship is +/_ 25% if you use a torque wrench! I reckon that with your experience you can probably get a better result than that just by feel ( which the same book says is +/_ 35% ). I do use a torque wrench where I have sets of bolts that should have the load distributed evenly between them, but you are talking about single "bolts" here. I was just thinking a grind will probably be needed 🙁 NO NEED FOR DIRTY TALK, BOAB MIN….! |
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Post by unclebob on Jul 29, 2021 23:43:35 GMT
Sorry grinder 😳
you youngsters are so up on the street slang 😄😄😉
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