|
|
Post by bothwellbuyer on Jul 13, 2021 17:14:28 GMT
apologies - this was discussed a couple of years ago. I parked the car ((Volvo XC90 in metallic blue) in yard at place I'm working - where seagulls nest on surrounding factory roofs. Today, a sunny day, I returned in the afternoon to find one of the dear little/big seagulls had dropped down the side of the car an unwelcome package. I went straight to a car wash - hand wash folk - and they washed the car first using TFR (traffic fild remover?) then water then soapy car wash then spray gun water. Then chaois dry. Got home and the paintwork is still showing a blemish on where it had been hit. Tried a 3 part polish - no use. tried an ultra fine T-cut - removed a little.
The read the post 2 years ago and I should use a clay bar and loads of water.
Should I first try that iso-propyl alcohol on the blemish?? Or just use a clay bar...if so, then what clay bar/or from who?
I've managed to wash much off before same day without a blemish being left so no idea what they birds have been eating (there is a MacDonalds 4 minutes away as the crow flies)
Ideas?
|
|
|
|
Post by charliefarlie on Jul 13, 2021 18:46:18 GMT
When bird crap lands on your it doesn't leave a stain like a lot think it does. What it actually does is shrink and it drags the laquer with it. It’s this that leaves the marring you can see…
First off don’t use Tcut it’s full of ammonia which can drain modern water based lacquers. It’s an outdated and nasty product.
The answer is careful measuring with a two stage paint thickness gauge. This will tell you the individual thickness of the paint and more important the lacquer. It’s the lacquer that is pulled and damaged ..
Providing there is enough lacquer the area then needs ultra careful wet sanding to remove the pulled lacquer. Then polishing to remove the marks left by the sand paper…
A lot of the damage can be removed by polishing. But each time you polish a bit more lacquer will be removed leaving less for an effective repair.
You really need a good detailer with an understanding of wet sanding. Ultimate care really is key 👍👍👍
One real reason to wax cars is the inability for bird lime to stick shrink and do damage. Wax or sealants are all about protection as well as appearance
|
|
|
|
Post by bothwellbuyer on Jul 14, 2021 3:51:40 GMT
When bird crap lands on your it doesn't leave a stain like a lot think it does. What it actually does is shrink and it drags the laquer with it. It’s this that leaves the marring you can see… First off don’t use Tcut it’s full of ammonia which can drain modern water based lacquers. It’s an outdated and nasty product. The answer is careful measuring with a two stage paint thickness gauge. This will tell you the individual thickness of the paint and more important the lacquer. It’s the lacquer that is pulled and damaged .. Providing there is enough lacquer the area then needs ultra careful wet sanding to remove the pulled lacquer. Then polishing to remove the marks left by the sand paper… A lot of the damage can be removed by polishing. But each time you polish a bit more lacquer will be removed leaving less for an effective repair. You really need a good detailer with an understanding of wet sanding. Ultimate care really is key 👍👍👍 One real reason to wax cars is the inability for bird lime to stick shrink and do damage. Wax or sealants are all about protection as well as appearance Thank you. Lesson learnt - I'd bought wax but never got round to polishing the car last summer, after it had been with a detailer in summer 2019 ! I'll find a detailer and book car in for when I'm not driving trucks (ie when I have a few days off, as turning up for work in a Green Goddess might be novel, but not practical really!) |
|
|
|
Post by bigkev on Jul 15, 2021 15:09:46 GMT
Read an article a while back, noo cannae find it. As Charlie says, it’s the shrinking and crazing/cracking of the lacquer topcoat that has to be sanded out and machined. This new fangled thing consists of wee chemical bags like Chris used when he was a mountaineer. You crack the seal between two compartments and they mix, causing substantial heat from the chemicals reacting. This is then placed over the poo’d damage to heat and melt the lacquer before machining. Sound dangerous tae me……3/6000 grit wet and dry sounds really easy in comparibits…..!
|
|
|
|
Post by three5 on Jul 16, 2021 8:23:43 GMT
Read an article a while back, noo cannae find it. As Charlie says, it’s the shrinking and crazing/cracking of the lacquer topcoat that has to be sanded out and machined. This new fangled thing consists of wee chemical bags like Chris used when he was a mountaineer. You crack the seal between two compartments and they mix, causing substantial heat from the chemicals reacting. This is then placed over the poo’d damage to heat and melt the lacquer before machining. Sound dangerous tae me……3/6000 grit wet and dry sounds really easy in comparibits…..! Working on a small area of my mates motor where he had got a bit too ambitious with the wet and dry was an education. The area was about 80 x 30 but he hadn't realised what he was doing and went through the lacquer, then the paint to the undercoat. Got some 2000/3000/5000 wet and dry and used it to remove the lacquer over a slightly bigger area then carefully replaced the metallic paint using an air brush. sanded that back using the 3000 and 5000 W&D then, again using the air brush, built up the lacquer, sanding between each coat to knock off the overspray. After the final coat of lacquer had been sanded we resorted to the RO polisher with a couple of grades of Charlie's favourite polish. It's all waxed now and I have difficulty in saying where we did the job. I suspect that the material that you need most is the patience to let the successive coats dry properly before starting on the sanding. I'm sure that your job will go just as well Kev. |
|
