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Post by widge on Jun 29, 2021 14:43:06 GMT
Hi
I was just wondering how difficult it is to do spraying.
The reason I am asking is that I had arranged with a friend to prepare and respray the cab of our 1981 transit camper, although he doesn't do it for a job, he is fully trained, he recently resprayed a neighbours Mercedes van and did an excellent job, the plan was that I would help with the preparation to keep the cost down, sadly he has just had some bad news, after feeling ill a week ago and being rushed to hospital he has discovered that he has cancer, hopefully treatable although he has to go for more tests.
But obviously the respray is out, unfortunately I will need to do some work sometime in the near future as there are a number of places where surface rust is getting through and it is starting to look a bit tatty.
I have done bit of patching and painting many years ago but only small areas with cans and it is never very satisfactory, but I was wondering about having a propper go myself, borrowing a compressor spray gun etc is not a problem, but it is the technique I don't know, I wondered if anyone could recommend any good YouTube videos etc.
Dave
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Post by davrav on Jun 29, 2021 15:39:47 GMT
Apart from the actual technique for applying the paint, good preparation is key.
Will you be spraying in a paint booth of any kind?
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Post by widge on Jun 29, 2021 16:32:45 GMT
Apart from the actual technique for applying the paint, good preparation is key. Will you be spraying in a paint booth of any kind? Hi Nothing so sophisticated I am afraid, the key bits that need the most attention are the bumpers and front panel/grill these are easily removable so I would be able to do them in my barn, likewise the bonnet, but the rest will have to be done outside with possibly some tarps to build a shelter. I think that it will have to wait until the autumn to do the bulk of it as it will soon be too hot, but as I am in the process of repairing the engine and already have the front panel and bumper off at the moment I am tempted to have a go at them before it gets reassembled. |
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Post by davrav on Jun 29, 2021 16:43:10 GMT
Apart from the actual technique for applying the paint, good preparation is key. Will you be spraying in a paint booth of any kind? Hi Nothing so sophisticated I am afraid, the key bits that need the most attention are the bumpers and front panel/grill these are easily removable so I would be able to do them in my barn, likewise the bonnet, but the rest will have to be done outside with possibly some tarps to build a shelter. I think that it will have to wait until the autumn to do the bulk of it as it will soon be too hot, but as I am in the process of repairing the engine and already have the front panel and bumper off at the moment I am tempted to have a go at them before it gets reassembled. Good opportunity to build some confidence for the bigger job Dave. Can you get hold of some old panels to experiment with at the same time as doing the removed pieces.? Stand them up so you can get used to doing vertical surfaces? |
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Post by three5 on Jun 29, 2021 19:24:02 GMT
Apart from the actual technique for applying the paint, good preparation is key. Will you be spraying in a paint booth of any kind? Hi Nothing so sophisticated I am afraid, the key bits that need the most attention are the bumpers and front panel/grill these are easily removable so I would be able to do them in my barn, likewise the bonnet, but the rest will have to be done outside with possibly some tarps to build a shelter. I think that it will have to wait until the autumn to do the bulk of it as it will soon be too hot, but as I am in the process of repairing the engine and already have the front panel and bumper off at the moment I am tempted to have a go at them before it gets reassembled. A few brief notes that I hope will help: TECHNIQUE:
1) Make sure that you can reach all the area you want to spray without dangling the airline on the surface. Ensure that the air supply is adequate for your spraygun and free from oil.
2) Stand with your feet at shoulder width and parallel to the surface 3) ALWAYS have the gun moving parallel to the surface you are painting BEFORE pulling the trigger - this is the easiest thing to get wrong but becomes natural with practice! 4) Mix all the paint you need for the present coat before you start applying it, observing the paint manufacturers instruction for the type and quantity of thinners to be added to the paint 5) When you are learning, turn down the air and paint flows through the gun - that way you might not get quite such even coats BUT you are far less likely to get runs. 6) try and keep a constant distance ( around 300mm ) between the gun nozzle and the panel
7) as your confidence grows and your technique develops you can tun up the paint and air flows 8) overlap the "strokes" from the gun by around 50% so that each part of the surface is coated twice. 9) Don't be tempted to overspray the panel again until it is dry - even if this means you don't get it quite even on the first coat. Re-coating when the paint is wet is the easiest way to get runs! PREPARATION and PRIMING: 10) time spent on preparation is NEVER wasted. 11) Sand the existing surface ( metal panel and any filled areas ) smooth before you start and wipe down the surface well with panel cleaner. Then apply a thin coat of primer and let it dry. At this point you will be able to see any imperfections in the surface. Apply knifing compound to make corrections.. Sand flat again with wet and dry ( 400 - 500 grade ) using some washing up liquid in water as a lubricant and re-coat with primer.
12) You may have to go through 11) several times before you get a good surface on which you apply another couple of coats of primer. 13) flat the primer with 500 wet and dry using the water and washing up liquid lubricant. Don't stint on the water! 14) Let the surface dry then buff it up with a dry soft cloth. 15) If you can get a "high build" primer that is compatible with the finish paint you want to use, go for that as it allows you to be a bit less careful about using the wet and dry. FINISHING: 16) By this time your spraying technique will be pretty good with any luck 17) Wipe the surface down with a tack rag ( buy them in packets from the paint supplier ) to get rid of any remaining dust. 18) Apply the finishing coat in a similar manner to step 8) 19) when it is really dry, use a cutting compound on the paint to get a smooth finish. A DA polisher would be a help here - well it would make the job less laborious! 20) when all is complete and the panels are reasembled, apply your usual polish and wax treatment. Generally: NEVER leave paint in the gun, wash it out thoroughly with thinners between coats.
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Post by widge on Jun 29, 2021 19:29:47 GMT
Hi Nothing so sophisticated I am afraid, the key bits that need the most attention are the bumpers and front panel/grill these are easily removable so I would be able to do them in my barn, likewise the bonnet, but the rest will have to be done outside with possibly some tarps to build a shelter. I think that it will have to wait until the autumn to do the bulk of it as it will soon be too hot, but as I am in the process of repairing the engine and already have the front panel and bumper off at the moment I am tempted to have a go at them before it gets reassembled. A few brief notes that I hope will help: TECHNIQUE:
1) Make sure that you can reach all the area you want to spray without dangling the airline on the surface. Ensure that the air supply is adequate for your spraygun and free from oil.
2) Stand with your feet at shoulder width and parallel to the surface 3) ALWAYS have the gun moving parallel to the surface you are painting BEFORE pulling the trigger - this is the easiest thing to get wrong but becomes natural with practice! 4) Mix all the paint you need for the present coat before you start applying it, observing the paint manufacturers instruction for the type and quantity of thinners to be added to the paint 5) When you are learning, turn down the air and paint flows through the gun - that way you might not get quite such even coats BUT you are far less likely to get runs. 6) try and keep a constant distance ( around 300mm ) between the gun nozzle and the panel
7) as your confidence grows and your technique develops you can tun up the paint and air flows 8) overlap the "strokes" from the gun by around 50% so that each part of the surface is coated twice. 9) Don't be tempted to overspray the panel again until it is dry - even if this means you don't get it quite even on the first coat. Re-coating when the paint is wet is the easiest way to get runs! PREPARATION and PRIMING: 10) time spent on preparation is NEVER wasted. 11) Sand the existing surface ( metal panel and any filled areas ) smooth before you start and wipe down the surface well with panel cleaner. Then apply a thin coat of primer and let it dry. At this point you will be able to see any imperfections in the surface. Apply knifing compound to make corrections.. Sand flat again with wet and dry ( 400 - 500 grade ) using some washing up liquid in water as a lubricant and re-coat with primer.
12) You may have to go through 11) several times before you get a good surface on which you apply another couple of coats of primer. 13) flat the primer with 500 wet and dry using the water and washing up liquid lubricant. Don't stint on the water! 14) Let the surface dry then buff it up with a dry soft cloth. 15) If you can get a "high build" primer that is compatible with the finish paint you want to use, go for that as it allows you to be a bit less careful about using the wet and dry. FINISHING: 16) By this time your spraying technique will be pretty good with any luck 17) Wipe the surface down with a tack rag ( buy them in packets from the paint supplier ) to get rid of any remaining dust. 18) Apply the finishing coat in a similar manner to step 8) 19) when it is really dry, use a cutting compound on the paint to get a smooth finish. A DA polisher would be a help here - well it would make the job less laborious! 20) when all is complete and the panels are reasembled, apply your usual polish and wax treatment. Generally: NEVER leave paint in the gun, wash it out thoroughly with thinners between coats.
Thanks that was very informative. |
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Post by three5 on Jun 29, 2021 19:42:22 GMT
It's a few years since I did a whole vehicle Dave, but I've just done a repair on a mates motor with a very nice metallic finish. He was very satisfied with the result ( thank goodness! )
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Post by widge on Jun 29, 2021 19:59:21 GMT
It's a few years since I did a whole vehicle Dave, but I've just done a repair on a mates motor with a very nice metallic finish. He was very satisfied with the result ( thank goodness! ) If it was a full vehicle I probably wouldn't consider it but the camper part is a separate contruction built on a transit cab and chassis so it is only the cab I am considering painting, it is also white with black grill and bumper so hopefully not as complicated as metallic paint. |
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Post by clarki on Jun 30, 2021 10:02:11 GMT
Seems that the spraying bit is very rewarding.
It's the prep that takes the time and breaks many people's will.
Might as well give it a go though, follow the 20 steps above and don't get stressed if you don't hit perfection on your first attempt.
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Post by Hoovie on Jun 30, 2021 10:10:04 GMT
One of the keys to get sorted will be the colour! There are hundreds of shades of "White" and the age of the van means forget any paint code, but get a paint supplier to match whatever white it currently is (after you give it a good wash and a bit of a cut ideally). If you are painting the whole cab then the colour matching won't be so critical but at least it means any transition into shut lines won't jump out at you. In terms of paint types, for a commercial vehicle your age I would go with cellulose paint. Probably the simplest option and you don't need to have a top lacquer/clear coat. I used Cellulose paint on my T4, which was 16 years old at the time I did this repair 
image_21 by David, on Flickr Some of this has been resprayed, some is original but it is very hard to tell which is which. I also used this paint as I wanted it to look decent but I wasn't needing to get a massive mirror shine - it's an old van after all  |
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Post by Mb2t on Jun 30, 2021 12:19:58 GMT
If the van is old, consider giving it the tough look - paint with texture. It eliminates the need to have a perfect surface underneath.
(Going into hiding now...)
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Post by widge on Jun 30, 2021 12:27:20 GMT
If the van is old, consider giving it the tough look - paint with texture. It eliminates the need to have a perfect surface underneath. (Going into hiding now...) It's a thought but it isn't in bad condition for its age, and last year I had it reclassified as vintage, so would like to keep it fairly original. |
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Post by clarki on Jun 30, 2021 12:30:00 GMT
Aluminum, like a DeLorean :TU: Not helping, no  |
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Post by three5 on Jun 30, 2021 13:11:10 GMT
Aluminum, like a DeLorean  Not helping, no  Ha! takes me back to my LR days painting aluminium panels. Any bare ( aluminium ) metal needs a coat of etch primer before anything else  One thing about old LR's was that the total loss gearbox lubrication system did a lot to protect the chassis  ( maybe )
I like Hoovie's idea of using cellulose paint, but it's getting very difficult to acquire these days - particularly if you are not in the trade. It's bad enough trying to get solvent based household paints!
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Post by widge on Jun 30, 2021 13:46:53 GMT
Aluminum, like a DeLorean Not helping, no Ha! takes me back to my LR days painting aluminium panels. Any bare ( aluminium ) metal needs a coat of etch primer before anything else One thing about old LR's was that the total loss gearbox lubrication system did a lot to protect the chassis ( maybe )
I like Hoovie's idea of using cellulose paint, but it's getting very difficult to acquire these days - particularly if you are not in the trade. It's bad enough trying to get solvent based household paints!
I am not sure what the situation is in France, but I am sure my friend could point me in the right direction. |
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One thing about old LR's was that the total loss gearbox lubrication system did a lot to protect the chassis