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Post by Paulus17 on Aug 5, 2019 8:22:41 GMT
Looking at the fuel tank I would want to wire Brush the worst of the surface corrosion off and then treat it with some rust prevention and then gloss black.
...and the minor exhaust blow needs the clamp loosening and some joint paste put in and retighten clamp.
No chance of me doing it Bob, I was only under there for about five minutes yesterday and felt terrible again, though I did manage to give the exhaust clamp a tighten so hope that will cure that little leak?
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Post by Paulus17 on Aug 5, 2019 9:48:22 GMT
Just had a call back from the place in LS and they want £495 inc VAT to Waxoyl the Rav. This includes jet washing and drying, wire brushing where needed all cavities sprayed and all plastic liners removed and replaced when finished, all in a day. So does this sound reasonable?
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Post by firemac on Aug 5, 2019 11:28:29 GMT
Just had a call back from the place in LS and they want £495 inc VAT to Waxoyl the Rav. This includes jet washing and drying, wire brushing where needed all cavities sprayed and all plastic liners removed and replaced when finished, all in a day. So does this sound reasonable? I had our first RAV (the 02 VX) done with Waxoyl by a local firm about 5 years ago and it was something like £400-ish, so your quote isn't too bad INMHO. I know that there are differing views on here re Waxoyl:Dinitrol but there isn't anything in it between the two, I reckon. A professional firm will use high-pressure compressed air to inject the Waxoyl into all the cavities on the body as well as coating the underside. Usually it takes a day for a proper job. The beauty of stuff like Waxoyl is that it neutralises any surface rust as well as providing an impervious coating onto the metal.
I've used Waxoyl on many vehicles over the years and I cannot fault it. If you intend to keep the car, it could be money well spent as even the best vehicles (and the RAV is very good rust-wise) can succumb to the tinworm over time.
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Post by Paulus17 on Aug 6, 2019 6:26:42 GMT
Just had a call back from the place in LS and they want £495 inc VAT to Waxoyl the Rav. This includes jet washing and drying, wire brushing where needed all cavities sprayed and all plastic liners removed and replaced when finished, all in a day. So does this sound reasonable? I had our first RAV (the 02 VX) done with Waxoyl by a local firm about 5 years ago and it was something like £400-ish, so your quote isn't too bad INMHO. I know that there are differing views on here re Waxoyl:Dinitrol but there isn't anything in it between the two, I reckon. A professional firm will use high-pressure compressed air to inject the Waxoyl into all the cavities on the body as well as coating the underside. Usually it takes a day for a proper job. The beauty of stuff like Waxoyl is that it neutralises any surface rust as well as providing an impervious coating onto the metal.
I've used Waxoyl on many vehicles over the years and I cannot fault it. If you intend to keep the car, it could be money well spent as even the best vehicles (and the RAV is very good rust-wise) can succumb to the tinworm over time.
Cheers Jim :TU: It is a lot of money Jim if Mrs P changes her mind again in a few months time and decides to get rid when the next thing goes wrong with it. I did read yesterday though that waxoyling or whatever only works if the metal is fairly rust free and ideal for new cars. Does the waxoyl stabilise the rust like Kurust would as it's not just surface rust.
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Post by firemac on Aug 6, 2019 8:20:56 GMT
I had our first RAV (the 02 VX) done with Waxoyl by a local firm about 5 years ago and it was something like £400-ish, so your quote isn't too bad INMHO. I know that there are differing views on here re Waxoyl:Dinitrol but there isn't anything in it between the two, I reckon. A professional firm will use high-pressure compressed air to inject the Waxoyl into all the cavities on the body as well as coating the underside. Usually it takes a day for a proper job. The beauty of stuff like Waxoyl is that it neutralises any surface rust as well as providing an impervious coating onto the metal.
I've used Waxoyl on many vehicles over the years and I cannot fault it. If you intend to keep the car, it could be money well spent as even the best vehicles (and the RAV is very good rust-wise) can succumb to the tinworm over time.
Cheers Jim It is a lot of money Jim if Mrs P changes her mind again in a few months time and decides to get rid when the next thing goes wrong with it. I did read yesterday though that waxoyling or whatever only works if the metal is fairly rust free and ideal for new cars. Does the waxoyl stabilise the rust like Kurust would as it's not just surface rust. Any compound like Waxoyl, Dinitrol, etc works best on clean/new metalwork. Waxoyl will neutralise surface rust but nothing will deal with structural rust other than a proper repair, IMHO. All I can tell you is that I've used Waxoyl on several cars, all used, over the years with excellent results. :TU:
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Post by Paulus17 on Aug 6, 2019 9:41:14 GMT
Cheers Jim It is a lot of money Jim if Mrs P changes her mind again in a few months time and decides to get rid when the next thing goes wrong with it. I did read yesterday though that waxoyling or whatever only works if the metal is fairly rust free and ideal for new cars. Does the waxoyl stabilise the rust like Kurust would as it's not just surface rust. Any compound like Waxoyl, Dinitrol, etc works best on clean/new metalwork. Waxoyl will neutralise surface rust but nothing will deal with structural rust other than a proper repair, IMHO. All I can tell you is that I've used Waxoyl on several cars, all used, over the years with excellent results. So looking at the piccys of the tanks Jim where the black underseal that was put on previously but is now flaking off, would you say that was surface rust or more severe rusting, would waxoyl be ok on that sort of rusting? The whole of the underside has been sealed at some point in the Ravs life but as I've said before it is flaking off now and where it has the areas have rusted.
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Post by bigkev on Aug 6, 2019 11:16:38 GMT
Please take this as the most constructive comment I can think of, Paul.......
LEAVE WELL ALONE.........your wife is a wummin, and could change her mind anytime soon, naw.....? If the tank is rusted, it may well also be rusting from the inside out......you will never know. Guarantee the filler pipe none too healthy too. You have had enough expense......leave it and let fate take a hand.......a scrapper fuel tank and a new filler pipe will cost less than Richard Turpin the undersealer, and may never be needed. Tell Mrs. P to stop worrying until there is sumfink to worry aboot.
All done in the best possible taste.......
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Post by Paulus17 on Aug 6, 2019 12:15:10 GMT
Please take this as the most constructive comment I can think of, Paul....... LEAVE WELL ALONE.........your wife is a wummin, and could change her mind anytime soon, naw.....? If the tank is rusted, it may well also be rusting from the inside out......you will never know. Guarantee the filler pipe none too healthy too. You have had enough expense......leave it and let fate take a hand.......a scrapper fuel tank and a new filler pipe will cost less than Richard Turpin the undersealer, and may never be needed. Tell Mrs. P to stop worrying until there is sumfink to worry aboot. All done in the best possible taste....... Cheers Kevo :TU: the changing her mind bit is my concern as she'll have it done then decide to sell so someone else will benefit from it. I have told her that the tank seems solid enuff. I did the fuel pipe a few weeks back Kev, that's in another thread and again it seemed ok so treated it with AC-50.
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Post by unclebob on Aug 6, 2019 14:04:44 GMT
Please take this as the most constructive comment I can think of, Paul....... LEAVE WELL ALONE.........your wife is a wummin, and could change her mind anytime soon, naw.....? If the tank is rusted, it may well also be rusting from the inside out......you will never know. Guarantee the filler pipe none too healthy too. You have had enough expense......leave it and let fate take a hand.......a scrapper fuel tank and a new filler pipe will cost less than Richard Turpin the undersealer, and may never be needed. Tell Mrs. P to stop worrying until there is sumfink to worry aboot. All done in the best possible taste....... There speaks some common sense and someone that holds the purse strings 😉😉
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Post by jasehutch on Aug 6, 2019 18:36:08 GMT
Please take this as the most constructive comment I can think of, Paul....... LEAVE WELL ALONE.........your wife is a wummin, and could change her mind anytime soon, naw.....? If the tank is rusted, it may well also be rusting from the inside out......you will never know. Guarantee the filler pipe none too healthy too. You have had enough expense......leave it and let fate take a hand.......a scrapper fuel tank and a new filler pipe will cost less than Richard Turpin the undersealer, and may never be needed. Tell Mrs. P to stop worrying until there is sumfink to worry aboot. All done in the best possible taste....... There speaks some common sense and someone that holds the purse strings 😉😉 He is Scottish after 'll..
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Post by bigkev on Aug 8, 2019 3:36:28 GMT
There speaks some common sense and someone that holds the purse strings 😉😉 He is Scottish after 'll.. Just trying to leave Paul enough funds furra Jaguar XJ, Jase min. Urrawfy nice.......90 is the new 60, AND they run on fumes.......lots and lots of fumes.
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Post by Paulus17 on Aug 8, 2019 6:19:38 GMT
He is Scottish after 'll.. Just trying to leave Paul enough funds furra Jaguar XJ, Jase min. Urrawfy nice.......90 is the new 60, AND they run on fumes.......lots and lots of fumes. Very foughtful of you there BK, but a low lying car like that won't do me these days, though my younger brother bought a nice Jag last year think it's an XF, Black wiv chrome trims. :TU:
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Post by bothwellbuyer on Aug 10, 2019 7:59:12 GMT
Reflecting back to my 1994 RAVs. I replaced one petrol tank as someone had used it to jack up the car when replacing a wheel. From looking at both cars' tanks, they rust from the top.... normally rusts starts around the inspection and gauge mounting plates which gather muck and moisture and progresses from there. You won't get much rust on the bottom. Then theres the pipes going into the top of the tank too. The RAV tank is like a saddle tank....2 tanks joined in the middle over the propshaft sort of thing which means to fill it to the brim, the last 10 litres is often a slow fill as the petrol flows from one side to the other. You can access the top of the tank in part from inspection hatches on the floor at the rear...that will at least allow you to have a look at the condition. I found the main rust was at the rear subframe mounting areas and thats what killed off both RAVs. So if you do want to rustproof....do the rear end.
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Post by Paulus17 on Aug 10, 2019 11:12:07 GMT
Reflecting back to my 1994 RAVs. I replaced one petrol tank as someone had used it to jack up the car when replacing a wheel. From looking at both cars' tanks, they rust from the top.... normally rusts starts around the inspection and gauge mounting plates which gather muck and moisture and progresses from there. You won't get much rust on the bottom. Then theres the pipes going into the top of the tank too. The RAV tank is like a saddle tank....2 tanks joined in the middle over the propshaft sort of thing which means to fill it to the brim, the last 10 litres is often a slow fill as the petrol flows from one side to the other. You can access the top of the tank in part from inspection hatches on the floor at the rear...that will at least allow you to have a look at the condition. I found the main rust was at the rear subframe mounting areas and thats what killed off both RAVs. So if you do want to rustproof....do the rear end. Thanks for that info Bothy :TU: I suppose to inspect it from the top means stripping all the back out?? I will have a look at the subframe mounts when i'm under next :TU: but from what I could see everything looks fine to me?? Well folks Mrs P was not so bothered about having all the underside done at the moment just the petrol tank for the winter months, so have been attempting it me self doing, sorry Kev, about five minutes at a time with about an hours break in between as I am still getting the sicky feeling Anyhoo I have been gently scraping and brushing, using a brass brush and have found one rust bubble that was bad on the overflow tank O/S. I have treated all the rusted areas with Kurust and have got some of that repair putty to put in the badly rusted area then I will waxoyl it, hopefully Also thinking of it I don't think we have filled this tank up only putting £20 at a time in so don't even know if the O/S tank would leak??
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Post by Paulus17 on Aug 10, 2019 15:53:47 GMT
That's it all done i'm glad to say, and what I thought was an hole was fine it was just another layer of whatever was put on there so scraped all the loose stuff off treated it with Kurust and waxoyled it all, now I've just gotta get over this sickness feeling again :yes:
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