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Post by olderbutnotwiser on Aug 24, 2018 6:39:30 GMT
Wifie complained of a noise when braking. I took the car for a drive and heard the wurr-wurr noise that usually comes from low pad ( no pad ? ) thickness left.
I had a look around the car and noticed the front discs were corroded. I had a look at the driver's side disc inner surface, and it looked like this !
New discs fitted, but there is still a noise, and now a faint smell of burning.
Now I'm thinking that although the front discs needed replaced anyway, that there is a 2nd issue.
I think the handbrake is stuck partly on. Noticed that anthough it was adjusted in Feb this year, the lever now has lots of free play.
With the button held in, lever can move through around 6" to take up any slack.
You can feel the car slowing when you lift off the accelerator pedal ( more than I've noticed before.
I'm wondering now if the problem is the brake shoes, or the cable ? Or both ?
I remember the 4.1 we had need much cable fettling.
Any guidance much appreciated.
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Post by anchorman on Aug 24, 2018 8:16:32 GMT
The discs will get like that with low usage. If you’re not very mechanically minded, you probably need to take it to a garage. It’s entirely possible that the rears are in a similar state.
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Post by unclebob on Aug 24, 2018 8:34:39 GMT
It’s possible the rear brake back plate is rubbing on the disc ....common on toyota/Lexus vehicles 👍🏻
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Post by bobbyboy on Aug 24, 2018 10:16:26 GMT
Handbrake cables prone to sticking/failing where they go through backplate.
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Post by phaeton on Aug 24, 2018 10:44:47 GMT
Did you out in new pads & push the calipers all the way back when you did the fronts, that looks like the piston might be ceased in the inside.
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Post by three5 on Aug 24, 2018 11:03:26 GMT
My fairly low mileage 4.3 is a bit older than yours and I've had to replace both handbrake cables ( R & L ) as they were siezed at the point where the inner cable goes through a cast aluminium end fitting at the backplate. I did it myself and it wasn't a bad job. I'm fairly slow and it took just over an hour each side. I put the trouble down to "dissimilar metal" corrosion and Anchorman thought that entirely possible. Parts ( cables ) cost about £35 but you might consider replacing the shoe retaining pins and clips at the same time as they also corrode where they pass through the backplate. I think that was about another £20 as they are Toyota parts ( unless someone has found another source? )
The symptoms were very similar to the ones you describe but were masked by one of the brakes still working. HTH.
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Post by olderbutnotwiser on Aug 24, 2018 11:49:13 GMT
Did you out in new pads & push the calipers all the way back when you did the fronts, that looks like the piston might be ceased in the inside.
Never done any brake work myself for a few years now. Garage work only.
Rear discs and pads replaced in Feb, Fronts now replaced ( last week ) .
Was looking forward to some trouble free motoring, but I guess that'll
need to wait until the handbrake is sorted. 
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Post by olderbutnotwiser on Aug 24, 2018 11:51:09 GMT
The discs will get like that with low usage. If you’re not very mechanically minded, you probably need to take it to a garage. It’s entirely possible that the rears are in a similar state. Car has covered 97 000 miles now, so Probably average for the year ? We do around 13 000 miles a year for the past 3 years.
Discs & pads changed now, so nearly all good.
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Post by three5 on Aug 24, 2018 11:56:31 GMT
Just shout if you need any help about the order of work. I just used a trolly jack and axel stands on the drive for the second cable. Decided it wasn't worth using the pit again after the first one. Hardest bit was getting the old ( siezed ) cable out of the backplate, rest was straightforward.
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Post by bigkev on Aug 24, 2018 15:44:22 GMT
Seized caliper will manifest itself by a roasting warm disc and even alloy, Wilf.......any wheel got suspiciously more brake dust on it than its axle sibling......?
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Post by Ravasher on Aug 25, 2018 13:34:28 GMT
We had our handbrake cables replaced about a year ago as the rear brake used to stay on. Inand the garage do ours and was done in a few hours.
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Post by olderbutnotwiser on Aug 25, 2018 18:54:18 GMT
Seized caliper will manifest itself by a roasting warm disc and even alloy, Wilf.......any wheel got suspiciously more brake dust on it than its axle sibling......? Not that I've noticed highlandkev. Garage going to look at it on Tuesday. |
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Post by bigkev on Aug 25, 2018 21:50:07 GMT
Give it a good run tomorrow........stop and grab hold of both rear discs in turn........if ye get severe burns, caliper stuck on.......had it twice on Funnerburd Twa and the Wanst on Funnerburd Wan in the last twa years, ken.....?
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Post by sich1 on Aug 26, 2018 17:45:29 GMT
had an issue on mine where there was a very slight rust ring on the caliper piston.this was stopping the caliper retracting as it should. result was a hot smell and if you spat on the disc it would vapourise instantly!!
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Post by olderbutnotwiser on Sept 4, 2018 9:46:33 GMT
Garage has had a look at the handbrake and it's the dreaded cable stick AND new shoes, AND corroded inner surface of rear discs. So new cables, shoes, discs and pads. Only good news is that after that, the whole braking system will be at most 3 weeks old. Not expecting any more issues . . . hopefully. |
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