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Post by bigkev on Mar 24, 2018 8:47:19 GMT
WOTSHA MINS.......I already have input from Charlie on t'phone, but wonder what youz yins think.......
Much as my original alloy FACES are still immaculate after 5.5 years......I tend to park then walk to the pavement........the INNER rims are getting kinda scabby. To this end, being a fan of Hammerite Smooth Silver, I was thinking of painting the inner rims. It is in honesty quite a "bright" silver, but gives a super smooth easy clean surface to remove crud from.
Any observations......?
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Post by davrav on Mar 24, 2018 11:26:01 GMT
Hey Kev, have you actually given the inner rims a 'Charlie Farlie' clean? You may be surprised how well they come up. You'd have to clean them to spotless before painting anyway.
AFIK, the original inner surfaces are not painted to the same finish as the outer - more like an undercoat but certainly more grey than silver.
With regard to painting with Hammerite, how do you decide where to stop in terms of inside/outside?
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Post by unclebob on Mar 24, 2018 12:09:20 GMT
I touched in the scabs on my last 4.2 with hammerite but never done the whole inner rim.
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Post by Hoovie on Mar 24, 2018 12:46:12 GMT
WOTSHA MINS.......I already have input from Charlie on t'phone, but wonder what youz yins think....... Much as my original alloy FACES are still immaculate after 5.5 years......I tend to park then walk to the pavement........the INNER rims are getting kinda scabby. To this end, being a fan of Hammerite Smooth Silver, I was thinking of painting the inner rims. It is in honesty quite a "bright" silver, but gives a super smooth easy clean surface to remove crud from. Any observations......? Very often the cruddy look is due to lumps of tar stuck to the inner well. I would give then a really good clean, using TARDIS and G101 to get the stuff off - it is remarkable how much stuff comes off even wheels that have never been cleaned inside for 10+ years. And then wax with colinite to make it easier to clean. I don't believe Hammerite will provide any smoother a surface than what you have now for future cleaning |
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Post by bigkev on Mar 24, 2018 12:47:34 GMT
Hey Kev, have you actually given the inner rims a 'Charlie Farlie' clean? You may be surprised how well they come up. You'd have to clean them to spotless before painting anyway. AFIK, the original inner surfaces are not painted to the same finish as the outer - more like an undercoat but certainly more grey than silver. With regard to painting with Hammerite, how do you decide where to stop in terms of inside/outside? When the Hammerite starts to run oot the wheel slots, on tae the fronts, ah will stop......lol....! |
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Post by bigkev on Mar 24, 2018 12:49:08 GMT
WOTSHA MINS.......I already have input from Charlie on t'phone, but wonder what youz yins think....... Much as my original alloy FACES are still immaculate after 5.5 years......I tend to park then walk to the pavement........the INNER rims are getting kinda scabby. To this end, being a fan of Hammerite Smooth Silver, I was thinking of painting the inner rims. It is in honesty quite a "bright" silver, but gives a super smooth easy clean surface to remove crud from. Any observations......? Very often the cruddy look is due to lumps of tar stuck to the inner well. I would give then a really good clean, using TARDIS and G101 to get the stuff off - it is remarkable how much stuff comes off even wheels that have never been cleaned inside for 10+ years. And then wax with colinite to make it easier to clean. I don't believe Hammerite will provide any smoother a surface than what you have now for future cleaning Looking more for BRIGHTNESS then ease of cleaning, David. |
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Post by Hoovie on Mar 24, 2018 12:58:04 GMT
Ah. Fair enough.
Getting the Demarcation between front and back will be the key - and won't be easy to get right. I am not sure you will really notice to be totally honest. When I was doing wheels, a dark finish was popular for the face - either Black or Anthracite. The only wheels I painted the inside wheel well of was actually your RAV4 Granites. I would only do the fronts (that is the norm for all painted repairs) and no one ever noticed the insides ...
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Post by three5 on Mar 24, 2018 13:39:52 GMT
I had my winter wheels refurbished ( powder coated ) by Platinum Alloys before Christmas. They did the inner and outer faces exactly the same. To me ( only MHO! ) the effect is much better than the original, particularly after a couple of coats of Collinite before fitting them. The summer wheels are being done next week and will get the same Collinite treatment when I get them home. Hoovie is spot on about the build-up of crud on the inside of the wheels. Before refurbishment, I never managed to get them as clean as I would have liked even when they were removed from the car. The Toyota treatment of the inner surfaces of the wheels left what I can only describe as an "eggshell" finish ( - in paint terms ) Using my usual wheel cleaner now seems to work a lot better on the inside of the wheels, but I've not inspected them with the wheels off. I'll rectify this in a couple of weeks and maybe post a few photos.
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Post by bigkev on Mar 24, 2018 15:14:30 GMT
Warning to all.......make sure your wheels have already been balanced after refurbification prior to the balance weights being applied to a face with Collinite Wax applied ........
THEY MAY NOT STICK PROPERLY AND COME FLYING AFF AFTER A SHORT TIME.......yep......been there, mins.......lol.
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Post by three5 on Mar 24, 2018 16:10:58 GMT
Warning to all.......make sure your wheels have already been balanced after refurbification prior to the balance weights being applied to a face with Collinite Wax applied ........ THEY MAY NOT STICK PROPERLY AND COME FLYING AFF AFTER A SHORT TIME.......yep......been there, mins.......lol. :TU: :TU: :TU: ! That hadn't occurred to me Kev but I'm certain you're right. I was a bit concerned that the refurbished wheels would get damaged by a tyre fitter so got Platinum Alloys to fit my new tyres and balance them, so dodged that bullet! Just off to treat my blankets with Collinite now .............. OK, I'll go.  |
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Post by bigkev on Mar 24, 2018 17:07:43 GMT
Ah. Fair enough. Getting the Demarcation between front and back will be the key - and won't be easy to get right. I am not sure you will really notice to be totally honest. When I was doing wheels, a dark finish was popular for the face - either Black or Anthracite. The only wheels I painted the inside wheel well of was actually your RAV4 Granites. I would only do the fronts (that is the norm for all painted repairs) and no one ever noticed the insides ... Demarcation shall be done by eye, and clever avoidance of any frontal contamination facilitated by clever use of masking tape and slanting wheel inner rim toward me the painter, so if stupid enough to have a run from excess paint, it will run towards tyre inner face. |
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Post by anchorman on Mar 24, 2018 20:26:38 GMT
I tend to use a speedmaster brush which does quite a good job. I wouldn’t have thought of painting the wheels and may well have considered you barking mad. But I’m reserving judgement.
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Post by anchorman on Mar 24, 2018 20:34:11 GMT
Incidentally, remember when the 4.3s first got facelifted in 2009, the new SR model had two tone T180 wheels without the cartel shackles. Well Rob has just had his done in a slightly darker than original. They came out superb.......  |
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Post by Hoovie on Mar 24, 2018 22:35:34 GMT
They were not two-tone in the painted sense, but the whole wheel was finished in the single time and then the wheel was turned on a lathe to make the diamond cut effect with bare metal and then lacquered.
(Looked good for a few months until water got in a pin-prick sized hole and created the spiderweb corrosion patterns)
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Post by anchorman on Mar 24, 2018 23:17:18 GMT
Those are not two tone in the painted sense. They are grey and diamond cut.
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